One of the problems that has been dogging me is how to close the gap from the window to the roof line. Unlike the real car that has the weather seal that sits on top of the window, I'm looking for something cosmetic. The real ones the window rolls down when the door is activated to allow the window to clear the roof. My solution is to put a weather seal strip against the window to give the illusion of a seal. This would not hold water out but since I am not taking it out in the rain, this will at least serve that purpose.

I used a 1/2" aluminum angle iron that was screwed to the roof. I should have used shorter screws as it went through the top and I will have to refinish and paint it again. Next, I fastened belt weather stripping from JC Whitney, part # 81ZX9751A using trim adhesive. When the door comes down, it rests against the edge of the weather seal and closes the gap.


I finished installing the mirrors. This consisted of making a plate out of ABS that was heated and formed to the triangular section where the mirrors mount. Next I cut the Fiero mirror plate to fit the motor. Depending on how the mirror motors are mounted, you will have to adjust. I sealed the area around the wires and the mirror with silicon. I fed the wires through the door and connected and tested the functionality. I bolted the mirror through the access hole in the door. This would have been much easier with the doors off. I used some Butyl window tape and silicon on the mirror housing to fasten the mirror. I seated the mirror and taped it in position overnight. Repeat for the passengers side.


Once the mirrors were in place, I needed to cover the access hole. I made a template out of paper then cut some FRB board to the correct shape. Drilled 1/4" holes and placed upholstery fasteners through the FRB. I then covered with padding and vinyl. I fastened in place and the access holes are now covered.


One of the challenges in running the wires from the interior of the door to the inside of the car. I elected to route the wire along the hinge. This will prevent any stretching of the wire loom. I have temporarily fastened with wire ties but plan on using a more secure method when completed.


Fabricated a bracket to hold the solenoid as well as the door release cable. This assembly will be bondoed and glassed to the interior door panel. The bracket was bondoed and glassed to the door. I also used wire ties that were fastened to the inner door panel to hold the wires from solenoid to the front of the door. I then installed foil backed insulation on the interior of the door by gluing it to the door panel. The solenoid and cables were connected and the wires fastened with wire ties to the door interior.

To fasten the panel to the door, I used a combination of hidden fasteners and stainless steel button head screws. The hidden fasteners I purchased from JC Whitney. I drilled holes in the door itself to make sure I was not hitting a screw that held the door frame. I then ground a bolt to a point and put a nut on it and inserted it into the hole. By placing the panel on the door and pressing down, it would mark the location on the panel that I would need to drill the hole for the fastener. I had pulled back the leather and inserted the fasteners through and carefully repeated the process for all 4 fasteners. I then glued the leather over the inserted fasteners with contact cement.

I drilled a hole through the door frame and welded a 1/4" bolt that I would fasten an L bracket to. I bondoed and glassed this bracket in place to the door panel. This allowed a secure connection from the panel to the door frame to take the stress of pulling the door closed. I fabricated a bracket that was bolted to the door opener and the cable connection. The bicycle cable was wire tied to the bracket and the cable was fastened to the handle. There is enough slack in the cable that the door panel can be lifted off the door and removed if necessary.

To cover the speakers on the inside, I had a suggestion from a viewer to use a cool whip container and velcro to fasten to the inner door panel. Because I needed access through the speaker opening to bolt the panel to the frame, I could not permanently fasten the speaker cover. Once the panel is bolted in place, (be sure to put the cover in the door first), it was simply pulled into place and the velcro secured it in place. It was necessary to notch the back edge to clear the cable.

Once the panel was fastened, the door was put in place, shock connected, speaker cover put in place and speakers added. 

To install the weather stripping on the outside of the window, I pop riveted it to the door. I then used 1 1/2 aluminum carpet trim cut to shape to cover the rivets. I still need to paint the strips and glue them to the door but it will ad a nice finish.

I purchased some the speakers for the stereo system and the cables for connecting. Still need to get an amp. 

Started on the interior door handle. I inserted the handle through the interior panel and made a U bracket to hold it in. I will be using a bicycle cable to connect to the actual door release mechanism. I fabricated a bracket that will be bondoed and glassed to the inside of the door panel. This holds the cable steady when the door handle is pulled. The cable will actually be strapped to the bracket with wire ties when it is finally installed.

I marked the speaker location to make sure it cleared the door mechanism on the inside. I marked off the area on the door with masking tape so the leather would not be scuffed by the saw. After cutting out the hole I fitted the outer ring on the speaker and screwed the assembly to the door. The grill snaps into the ring. I set the door panel on the door to see how it will look. I'm still working on a way to fasten the door panel to the door without actually using screws on the outside.

I needed to fill in the front edge of the door to match the body. I covered the primed surface with waxed paper and masking tape. It turned out pretty good. Still need to do the primer.

Got glass in both doors now. Still need to do bit of minor tweeking on Drivers side. I will be glad to get these behind me. Small things that when you narrow the door, you end up with space issues for clearance. When you don't listen to your own advice, the frame get twisted. I hope the small crack on the bottom edge of the glass will not grow any longer.

Worked on the mirrors. To fasten them, I drilled a hole in each leg large enough to accept the head of a 1/4" bolt. I then cut a slot to either side. Using 90 minute epoxy, I secured the bolts to the inside of the mirror legs. After they were set, I filled in the gaps with bondo. I drilled a hole through leg into the cavity and inserted the mirror motor into the mirror case.  I then marked the door to accept the bolts and a hole for the mirror wires to go through the door.

The drivers door had to be fixed to align it properly. When the gas shock was not installed, the alignment was fine, but under pressure, the bottom edge of the door was about 3/4" outside the body edge. I attempted to reposition the frame inside the door but nothing worked to my satisfaction. My solution was to cut a slice from the inner door, clamp it together and then use a temporary plate to hold it in place. I then glassed the two pieces together inside the door, applied bondo to the outside and now it aligns perfectly under pressure.

I installed rubber seals on each side that the roof actually rests on. Just about finished with roof.

I crated the brackets to hold the roof receivers. First I drilled hole to accept the posts. I then fabricated "T" shaped brackets that would hold the latch assembly. These were bondoed in and later glassed in. I used 2" tube to align over the latches. I welded small tabs on the tubes and then bondoed them in place. I also had to redo my third brake light holder for final fit.

I replaced the original receivers with the new style that swivel. It was necessary to grind out the original location. I welded small tabs on the receiver fitted the roof with a spacer to simulate the weather seal and then bondoed them in.

How to stretch a roof in four easy steps. When I spliced in the new roof line and modified the receiver, I found I was about 5/8" short. I cut a slice off of the roof and then using paint sticks and masking tape, I aligned the pieces. I used Glass mat and cloth as well as dowels between the tow pieces to close the gap. Finish with bondo and you are all done. I will need to do slight mods to the center brake light so the roof will seal properly.

I added an additional support to the window post to add additional stability. I am in the process of grinding the fiberglass away from the tube steel installed by IFG so I can add an additional plate. All is welded now and I also added a support from the dash to the cross member to make the side a little stronger

I installed braces from the firewall to a support for the door striker for each door. This will support the striker as well as give me some additional side protection.

.I worked more on the mirrors. The mirrors have an impression where the motor goes. Check to see that when the mirror motor is positioned that the control pivits are verticle and horizontal. Next cut out the opening, and drill a hole in the top leg to accept the wires from the motor.

The parts consist of the plate on the that will be attached on the inside of the door, the latch mechanism, plate, cable opener and striker that is attached to the door
Once the latch is assembled, the by pulling on the cable, the lever opens the striker plate and release the door.

Now cut an opening in the door that will allow the latch mechanism to fit through.
Trial fit the plate. It will then be necessary to drill three additional holes through the plate and the door. You will have to cuntersink the holes and then fasten with the 1/4" stainless bolts with flat washers and lock nuts on the inside. Do not put them too close to the edge or the bolts will tilt as you try to tighten them because of the curvature of the fiberglass on the inside.

Finished plate

I added two 1/4" bolts through the bottom two holes. I also added a plate on the inside for the bolts to go through to add some additional strength to prevent any twist at the hinge plate.

The striker pin is installed through the fiberglass with the plate on the backside. I will fasten the strike plate to reinforcing when the body is permanently mounted.

Create a loop with cable through the latch cable. Drill a hole in a washer to attach to the door latch. Use cable crimpers to close the loop. I found the cable crimps and special crimpers at a fishing supply store.